What I Drank Last Night
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Mullineux White 2012

On song.

On song.

Though Swartland cellar Mullineux Family Wines produced its first wines no longer ago than 2008, a combination of stellar ratings and sensible pricing (the Terroir Specific range notwithstanding) means that getting your hands on their stuff is proving increasingly difficult. Marketing manager Nicola Tipping invited me to taste the new release White 2012, Syrah 2011 and Straw Wine 2012 at Wine Concepts in Newlands today and I jumped at the chance.

Mullineux White 2012
Price: R185
76% Chenin Blanc, 16% Clairette Blanche and 8% Viognier. Subtle aromas and flavours of lemon, yellow apple, white peach and spice. Great concentration matched by tangy acidity. The fruit delineation is sharper than before, the wine less overtly oxidative. There seems ever greater clarity of vision when it comes to the winemaking. Inching towards completeness.

Score: 93/100.

Mullineux Syrah 2011
Price: R230
Very expressive, almost overwhelmingly so. Aromas of red berries and fynbos  leap from the glass, while the palate shows concentrated fruit and snappy acidity. It’s super-intense but happily not weighty. Hugely spicy on the finish – some 20% of the grapes underwent whole bunch ferment and the wine is just about on the right side of “stalky”. Admirably lively compared to many Swartland reds that can be listless but not as seamless, immediately convincing as 2010.

Score: 91/100

Mullineux Straw Wine 2012
Price: R230 (375ml)
100% Chenin Blanc. Dried peach and apricot, hint of burn sugar. Suitably thick textured but offset by driving acidity and hence nicely balanced. More lively than many other straw wines.

Score: 90/100

Comments

  1. Nkulu Mkhwanazi says:

    I have’nt tasted the Mullineux 2012 white yet. I had chance to taste the Syrah at a Wine Cellar Rhone tasting in early March. It was the only South African Syrah in the line up and it held its own against the Crozes Hermitage, Cornas and Cote Rotie. I was impressed by the elegant Syrah i found it restrained on the nose and it took a while to open up in the glass. A smartly made wine. Perhaps its opened in the last month. I am keen to taste these wines again

  2. Disappointing score for the Straw wine. Cellared 08 and 09 and is amazing stuff. I remember Neal Martin when he drank it along side the 86 D’Yquem declaring the 08 to be better.

    • Christian says:

      I think some are more predisposed to straw wine than others – I have to confess that when it comes to sweet wines, I tend to prefer those made from botrytis-infected grapes as they stand to have a bit more complexity.

  3. Thanks for your comments, Christian. The wines were incredibly expressive on Thursday. I hear it was a fruit day, but I’m keeping an open mind about that influence on the wine!

  4. Kwispedoor says:

    Had the 2012 White about two weeks ago and, apart from the peach, I found different aromatics, but I agree on the quality: gorgeous stuff.

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