Last night “Young Guns III”, a tasting hosted by Cape Town merchants and cellarers Wine Cellar and featuring winemakers who are “pushing the boundaries, flouting convention and embracing ‘natural’ winemaking”.
Marelise Jansen van Rensberg, winemaker at Beaumont in Bot River, particularly impressed. The Hope Marguerite 2012 from Chenin Blanc grown on the Beaumont property is looking impeccable. Lime, peach and pear plus some blossom on the nose. Pure and true on the palate with great fruit concentration, bright acidity and oak effortlessly assimilated. The finish is long and pithy. Wine Cellar price: R165.
Less perfectly formed but nonetheless striking was a Grenache 2011 under Jansen van Rensberg’s own Momento label. Fruit comes from a Swartland vineyard, no specific planting date known but thought to be over 50 years old. A cautious Jansen van Rensberg opted to inoculate, a third of her crop undergoing whole bunch fermentation. Afterwards, the wine spent 22 months in old barrels, one 225-litre and one 400-litre.
The result is a wine of some substance which is not to say weighty or bulky. There’s concentrated red fruit, a slight savoury edge, bright acidity and firm but fine tannins – grippy in the best possible way on account of being fruit rather than oak-derived. Wine Cellar price: R235.