Does non-vintage Champagne get better than this? A blend of 52% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir and 24% Pinot Meunier, this bottling comes mainly from the 2005 harvest but includes reserve wines from 2004 (16%) and 2001 (6%). Citrus and bread-like aromas and flavours, riveting acidity and a very fine, persistent mousse. Quite lean but that’s the way I like my bubbly. Good for a few more years yet. Score: 17.5/20.