Ambitious producers can’t talk long about their wines without sliding in some reference to terroir, or sense of place. But they can mean very different sort of places, and expressions of them. When Eben Sadie was establishing his Columella and Palladius early this century he was convinced that the Swartland needed blends (of both place […]
I like the term “truth bomb”. Dropping a truth bomb is so deliciously satisfying. It should completely floor everyone within the blast radius with sheer veracity and enlightenment. Writing about the wine industry is like searching for a cache of truth bombs to hurl. I’ll tell you this for free – they’re bloody hard to […]
What is gastronomic luxury? In a recent column in the World of Fine Wine, the thoughtful British food writer Francis Percival talks about “two competing visions” in the contemporary restaurant world: on the one hand, “checklist luxury”, which “comes from what the experience contains … the luxury of perpetual filet mignon and lobster”. Then there’s […]
This century has seen an accelerated move towards specificity in wine everywhere. It’s been very obvious in the Cape, not least: mostly in terms of general “terroir”, but also, for example, expressing soil types (with the Mullineux’s separate bottlings of syrah from schist, granite and iron a paradigm example), or even clonal selections (as in […]
“I’d rather drink a wooded Sauvignon Blanc over an unwooded Chardonnay,” remarked celebrity chef Pete Goffe-Wood over lunch the other day and I tend to share the sentiment. Chablis is Chablis but local unwooded Chardonnay often underwhelms, the wines failing to show real complexity. Wooded Sauvignon Blanc, on the other hand, is re-emerging as a […]
Last week I had the opportunity to visit Stellenbosch restaurant Overture for the first time. Let’s just say that it confirmed Bertus Basson’s growing reputation as a culinary superhero. I had such a thoroughly enjoyable experience, I even considered starting a new blog to gush about it. Obviously, I didn’t – by the end of […]
“I’ve never worked anywhere else,” says Miles Mossop. After nearly two decades of steering Tokara’s ship into award-winning wine territory, he’s soon to be sailing solo with Miles Mossop Wines. Though these things don’t happen quickly: there’s 18 years of minutiae on Tokara’s wines and vineyards stored in his mind that he needs to share […]
Check out this video featuring Patatsfontein, the single-vineyard Montagu Chenin Blanc as made by Reenan Borman and the rest of the Ronnie B Wines team. Made by the husband-and-wife team at Allthewine.net. Please let us have your comments and feel free to share.